Queen’s
graduate, Terry Shin, was interested in fashion from a young age. Classic
streetwear labels like Billionaire Boys Club, Stüssy, Bape had peaked his
interest, and discovering Japanese streetwear labels such as Number (N)ine,
Undercover, and Hare, initiated his journey into the fashion world. He ventured
further; exploring classic menswear styles while at Queen’s and eventually
working his way into perfecting the high-end avant-garde styles of Boris Bidjan
Saberi, Julius, and Rick Owens – the advancement of menswear today.
“I started
gathering ideas and themes since the early summer of 2014. Sampling took months
after months because I kept on switching materials, dimensions, designs
around.”
He
has continued further after graduating from Queen’s Life Sciences program in
2014 by designing an extremely meticulous collection entitled “BLACKMERLE”.
“The collection was
based around the idea of simplicity that can be infinitely complex.”
Terry’s
brand is a solemn, minimal, and monochrome collection composed of both Raw Cut
Short and Long Sleeve Tops, Tailored Drop Crotch Cargo Shorts, Side Lampo Zip
Hoodies, and 2-way Lampo Zip Bomber Jackets. All of thepieces are handcrafted with an unmatched attention to detail using
only the highest quality of materials and components.
“I spent countless hours sourcing fabrics
and comparing them to see what worked and what didn’t. Each piece was sampled
and altered multiple times to achieve the best fit and the proportion. I took
my time to not allow even the smallest details to be left unpolished.”
The
design process Terry took was not a brief road – over five months of sketching,
experimenting, and improving the cuts and fits of each piece until all were impeccable
in quality and aesthetic. He went on to direct look-books, editorials, videos,
develop a top-notch website, as well as complete various business aspects of
the launch, which was August 31st, 2015. Each piece is cut and sewn
from raw fabric until the piece is perfect. Terry is an extremely dedicated
mind in all aspects of life, as he completed the full process of BLACKMERLE
while preparing for and currently attending post-graduate studies for
Management at the University of British Columbia.
The
full collection can be ordered at www.blackmerle.com/shop with worldwide shipping and excellent price points. Check
out our full interview with Terry below:
1.
Tell us about BLACKMERLE’s
debut collection; are there any themes or inspirations behind the pieces?
The
first capsule collection, “BLKMRL”, consists of 5 unique custom cut
pieces that come in either black or white. The collection was based around the
idea of simplicity that can be infinitely complex.
2. How would you describe your
BLACKMERLE designs?
BLACKMERLE
integrates minimal grunge look with complex and utilizable details. Engineered
seam works and custom cut patterns contribute to its superior and unique
fit.
3.
What went into deciding the
materials and construction of your garments?
I spent countless hours sourcing fabrics and comparing them to see what
worked and what didn’t. A LOT of elements were taken into account in selecting
the right materials, not just for the garment itself, but also for the perfect
harmony and balance with other garments in the collection. I am a very
meticulous person. Each pieces were sampled and altered multiple times to
achieve the best fit and the proportion. I took my time to not allow even the
smallest details to be left unpolished.
4. What was the timeline like
in the creation of your label?
I
started gathering ideas and themes since the early summer of 2014. Sampling
took months after months because I kept on switching materials, dimensions,
designs around. Went through a lot of change and finally went into production.
I barely did anything but worked on the brand for a long f-ing time and I enjoyed
every bit of the process.
5. Did attending Queen’s help
drive the execution your collection?
Even
though I majored in a completely different field, I still believe that my
science background helped shaping myself into an analytic and detail-oriented
person.
6. Do you have any words of
advice for those looking to create their own label?
Be
meticulous and RECORD EVERYTHING. Set up a strong foundation of concept and
theme first. Lastly, do not rush and sample many many times because you will
always want to modify details and you will never be 100% satisfied.
